All quiet on the Kolkata front, for now

Park Street, Kolkata's throbbing artery, lay soft and silent under Tuesday's afternoon sun. Most shops and restaurants were closed, their roller doors shuttered. The pavements, usually bustling, were empty but for a few dogs.

Flurys Cafe was open, as it has been since 1927. Peter Cat, home of the chelo kebab since 1975, also remained. But a comfortable lull held the city. Some of the few people out wore dashes of vivid colour—Tuesday was Dol Jatra, the festival signaled by Holi, celebrated in parts of Kolkata.

A kilometre or two away, Eden Gardens was even quieter. Groundstaff prepared the arena. Later, New Zealand would train, followed by South Africa. For now, nothing moved.

It will be different on Thursday. Park Street will spring back to life, and Eden Gardens will heave with thousands for the men's T20 World Cup semifinal. Not as many as if India were playing, but a significant crowd. Kolkata is a proper cricket town.

South Africa have an interesting history at Eden Gardens. This is where they returned to international cricket in November 1991 after 22 years in isolation. In November 1996, they won a Test in India for the first time. In November 2023, they gifted Virat Kohli a birthday hundred, then crashed out of the World Cup in a semifinal against Australia later that month. But also in November last year, they won a Test in India for the first time since 2010, setting up their first Test series win in India in over 25 years.

What is it about South Africa in Kolkata in November? The cricket-minded will wonder about New Zealand and South Africa in global white-ball tournaments.

They've met 17 times in men's ICC events, with South Africa winning nine. But New Zealand have won all three knockout games between the teams: a World Cup quarterfinal in Dhaka in 2011, a semifinal in Auckland in 2015, and a Champions Trophy semifinal in Lahore last year.

In T20Is, South Africa have won 12 of 19 matches. They've also won all five of their T20 World Cup games against New Zealand, but none were in the knockout stages.

South Africa have never played a T20I at Eden Gardens; a 2015 match was washed out. New Zealand have played two T20Is in Kolkata, winning one and losing one. Overall at Eden Gardens, South Africa have won four and lost six; New Zealand have won two, lost two, and drawn two.

When the Springboks and All Blacks play rugby, the world watches. When the Proteas take on the Black Caps in cricket, not so much—even in a World Cup knockout at Eden Gardens.

Thursday's game is unlikely to buck that trend. But the winners will be the toast of Park Street—at least until they might meet India in Sunday's final in Ahmedabad.